Body work cost prohibitive?
#1
Body work cost prohibitive?
Looking to buy a 1973 Barracuda. Car needs LOTS of bodywork. New quarters, driver's fender, inner rear wheel wheels and inner fenders, trunk floor. Might be more. Car runs and drives but that's about all it has going for it. Would it even be worth picking up needing this much body work? A shop will have to do all this labor. TIA for any and all input.
#2
Super Moderator
The panels your describing and a quality paint are going to be in the tens of thousands of dollars in parts and labor. It's not uncommon to have $3500 + in paint materials alone.
Last edited by Iowan; 02-22-2020 at 09:22 PM.
#3
Question is; would it be worth it in the long run if I get the car cheap enough? Most E body Barracudas I've seen are between 20-30K nicely done, more for the 70-71 Cuda's. This is just a 1973 Barracuda with a 318. Even if I have to put $10-12 in body work, would I come out ahead?
#4
Super Moderator
Without seeing the car all I can say is it's easy to get up side down redoing a car, that is more $$$$ than its worth.
#5
Mopar Lover
G -
Can't say whether it's worth it or not, because the real question is: Is it worth it to you?
If you go that route, you will NEVER get back what you put into it - that's a given .
If this where a family heirloom you wanted to restore, the money AND time (might be talking years, depending the the amount of work and the shop you use) might be worth it, if you're just buying a car off eBay and what to "do it up", then is a judgement call.
Kinda like asking us what color to paint your car, we'll tell you what we like, not what you'll like.
Archer
Can't say whether it's worth it or not, because the real question is: Is it worth it to you?
If you go that route, you will NEVER get back what you put into it - that's a given .
If this where a family heirloom you wanted to restore, the money AND time (might be talking years, depending the the amount of work and the shop you use) might be worth it, if you're just buying a car off eBay and what to "do it up", then is a judgement call.
Kinda like asking us what color to paint your car, we'll tell you what we like, not what you'll like.
Archer
#6
Well, I’ve been looking for a 1972-74 Barracuda for a while. It seems they are all out of reach at 25-35k. Found this one on EBay (it’s still on there now, light green 1973 Barracuda) and it’s affordable, it needs lots of work. Do I just keep saving my pennies and wait for something I can afford nicer shape or snag this one and restore it? It seems the number of Barracudas in limited, and this might be my last chance for a while to get one in this price range. It is a complete, running drive able car as is. Just needs lots of bodywork, interior and cosmetics.
#7
Mopar Lover
g -
Maybe you want to go to local body / resto shops and ask them what it would cost?
Bring pictures or links to the one you want, and while they won't be able to give you a hard number without physically inspecting it, they might be able to give you high and low guesses or even if they would consider undertaking it. And yes, you may find those numbers prohibitive.
Remember, you're talking BOTH mechanical and cosmetic restorations and even a high $$$ clean car may need some work.
Archer
Maybe you want to go to local body / resto shops and ask them what it would cost?
Bring pictures or links to the one you want, and while they won't be able to give you a hard number without physically inspecting it, they might be able to give you high and low guesses or even if they would consider undertaking it. And yes, you may find those numbers prohibitive.
Remember, you're talking BOTH mechanical and cosmetic restorations and even a high $$$ clean car may need some work.
Archer
#8
Super Moderator
As a retired bodyman/painter I will tell you what I tell everyone else, if your not a bodyman buy the most solid complete car you can find!
I do.....
The money you save by buying that rusty hulk will some vanish in repair costs. Rust free is cheaper in the long run.
I do.....
The money you save by buying that rusty hulk will some vanish in repair costs. Rust free is cheaper in the long run.
The following users liked this post:
goromaki68 (02-23-2020)
#9
Well, thanks for the advice. I passed on the rusty one and found a pretty solid one instead. It was only $9,000 more for the solid one, money I'm sure will be saved on all the body work. Plus, this one is a 340 instead of a 318!
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