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Hello I have a 1977 Dodge Aspen 2 Door Coupe with the original slant 6. I was wondering what the actual temp should be with normal operating conditions at idle? I have enclosed a picture is this normal operating temp for the Aspen are is it running a little to hot? I cannot remember how to calculate these old gauges.Sorry for the little light glare. There is no obvious leaks and the rad always shows full. RacerHog you still around ?? Thank You
Looks good to me, it's still in the normal window.
Would that be a reading of say like 210? I am just curious. Sometimes it goes to that line and then goes down a little below the line but pretty much stays where you see it now. I had the lower rad hose finally collapse on me, The original hose at that still had the metal springs in it, Talk about old lol. I could not remember what the gauge would show at normal operating conditions prior so thought I would ask about it here. She is my pride and joy and I do what I can do to take care of her. I have even thought about installing a digital oil and temp gauge on her just to be on the safe side, But then again I myself have always liked to keep a vehicle original as much as possible its just something about original for me that makes me appreciate it even more. Sorry for the jumbo picture just noticed that, Did not mean to clutter the post. Thank You
The older gauges should hold near their mid position if all is well, but I have no idea on yours.
For the longest time I ran mechanical gauges in addition to the factory electrical ones.
Picking up a cheap ($20) temp gauge and using a temporary connection to the water jacket would solve the problem.
OR, you could pick up an IR thermometer (Harbor Freight, about $30), take readings and compare then to your gauge.
Sorry it has took me so long to reply life has been very busy on my end, And when I do have free time I am on my Harley enjoying my summer as much as possible. I was able to check the coolant and engine temp recently the results were the engine block itself shows a temp of 188, The rad temp in is 168 and the rad temp out is 112. I assume these readings are okay and pretty good for this being the original factory old slant six, The engine was at normal idle operating temp when I did the readings. Any further feedback is always welcomed of course. I am still
considering installing a mechanical temp gauge as well as replacing the temp sending unit, Heck I figure why not just to be on the safe side. Also I would like to state when the coolant is cold in the rad it always shows full as well so no obvious leaks that I can tell. The gauge sometimes freaks me out when it wants to climb but then again the weather here in TN has been pretty warm I think today it is around 90 outside. Sometimes it goes past the line you see in the picture and then drops back behind the line. Hope you all are doing well and staying safe out there in the real world. Thank You
If those are your max numbers, you should be fine.
If possible, repeat the readings under a "worst case scenario", like after being caught in traffic or simulating that.
And yes, the idea of a secondary, graduated mechanical temp gauge is still a good idea.
It will put your mind at ease, if nothing else.
If those are your max numbers, you should be fine.
If possible, repeat the readings under a "worst case scenario", like after being caught in traffic or simulating that.
And yes, the idea of a secondary, graduated mechanical temp gauge is still a good idea.
It will put your mind at ease, if nothing else.
Archer
This was completed under traffic conditions, I mean I drove 10 miles pulled over and performed the test, So the vehicle was good and hot for sure. Yeah I am gonna put a mechanical gauge on it too. Just to make sure all is well. Thank You
MY TEMP GAUGE IS STILL READING A LITTLE WARMER THEN I LIKE. LAST YEAR I REPLACED THE THERMOSTAT AND AS FAR AS I CAN TELL THE WATER PUMP IS STILL OKAY. I WENT AHEAD TODAY AND ORDERED A TEMP SENDING UNIT TO PUT ON THERE AND SEE IF IT CHANGES THE READING ON THE GUAGE ITSELF AT ALL. JUST DROVE IT TO TOWN A FEW MINUTES AGO. RAD IS FULL. THERE IS NO OBVIOUS LEAKS IN THE SYSTEM. I CANT REMEMBER WHAT THERMOSTAT I PUT IN THE VEHICLE LAST YEAR WAS I THINK IT WAS A 180 IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY. THE VEHICLE STILL HAS WORKING HEAT BUT THE AC HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER BEFORE ME. WHAT STAT WOULD YOU SUGGEST?? 180 185 OR 195?? I GUESS I WILL GO AHEAD AND PURCHASE ANOTHER CAP TOO, I FIGURE WHY NOT. THANK YOU
You Folks in Tennessee have some pretty high humidity that can make it challenging..
I would change out the sending unit... Make sure the passage is clear, Sometimes they get some rust that will block the sensor and give a false reading. Just a little screw driver or piece of bailing wire to clear any obstructions should do.
180 for the thermostat....
Hope you got a good fan shroud on the car?
5 Blade fan also helps....
Make sure the hoses are in good shape and not collapsing at a road speed.
Back flush the coolant system and refill with a good 50/50 mix coolant with adding some "Water Wetter" additive topped off with Distilled water. and see how she acts..
You Folks in Tennessee have some pretty high humidity that can make it challenging..
I would change out the sending unit... Make sure the passage is clear, Sometimes they get some rust that will block the sensor and give a false reading. Just a little screw driver or piece of bailing wire to clear any obstructions should do.
180 for the thermostat....
Hope you got a good fan shroud on the car?
5 Blade fan also helps....
Make sure the hoses are in good shape and not collapsing at a road speed.
Back flush the coolant system and refill with a good 50/50 mix coolant with adding some "Water Wetter" additive topped off with Distilled water. and see how she acts..
Thanks for all the advice I will try all of them and go from there.
No need to type in all caps, the caps mean you are yelling...
Hey let me have that engine in your pic, And Thanks. It would look good in my Aspen. How much rubber you going thru with that thing lol. I assume your at the track sometimes with it.
Got around to replacing the Temp Sensor at least and getting some readings with a gun tested it under cold and warm here are the readings as follows. What you all think?? Thank You
Cold:
Top Hose 78.3
Bottom Hose 73.5
Engine Block 200.3
Rad 73.4
Stat 167.8
Warm:
Top Hose 150.0
Bottom Hose 102.5
Engine Block 182.5
Rad 85.6
Stat 171.0
Engine Cold.
Engine started and needle dropping.
Engine Temp dropping.
Where the temp is holding at warm looks like final.
I have ran the Aspen pretty much all day today with a temp of weather being 76 today outside looks like. Here are the readings with the gun today with the engine warm at normal operating temp.
Top Hose Temp 137.1
Bottom Hose Temp 114.0
Engine Block Temp 270.8
Rad Temp 100.9
Stat Temp 170.3
Where the temp is holding at warm and hot looks like. I also noticed today that the needle was also showing even cooler at times and was on the line to the left and holding as well. Went for a nice ride thru the country today maybe 50 miles for testing it and there's the current results. I am use to seeing most needle gauges showing half, But I guess if I am showing less then that it is still a good thing.
I took the Aspen out again today. Weather today here in Crossville TN is 78. Checked the temp again today with the gun here are the results. I assume these temp readings are still good?? Thank You
Top Hose Temp 150.3
Bottom Hose Temp 127.1
Rad Temp 110.3
Stat Temp 185.9
Engine Block Temp 195.8
Lets see temp here today is 75 looks like. Tested vehicle's Temp today again even though the needle is reading less then half on the gauge, At times closer to the left line. Looks like it is staying cool, The engine is over 40 years old so works for me and as far as I can tell the engine has never been rebuilt and the water pump still looks to be like the original one in there
Warm Operating Temp:
Tope Hose Temp 156.8
Bottom Hose Temp 115.6
Engine Block Temp 248.7
Stat 178.0
Rad 107.5
You Folks in Tennessee have some pretty high humidity that can make it challenging..
I would change out the sending unit... Make sure the passage is clear, Sometimes they get some rust that will block the sensor and give a false reading. Just a little screw driver or piece of bailing wire to clear any obstructions should do.
180 for the thermostat....
Hope you got a good fan shroud on the car?
5 Blade fan also helps....
Make sure the hoses are in good shape and not collapsing at a road speed.
Back flush the coolant system and refill with a good 50/50 mix coolant with adding some "Water Wetter" additive topped off with Distilled water. and see how she acts..
Have replaced the Thermostat with a 180. Have replaced the temp sending unit. Made sure the passage was clear and not gummed up. Yes the fan has five blades and there is still the factory shroud installed around the rad. Have replaced all hoses. System was also back flushed. I was happy to see that you are still around and giving other members advice Mr. Bob. You sir are always productive and very helpful when issues arise. I appreciate U taking the time giving and sharing your feedback with me. My health is not so good and my memory is not what it use to be anymore either so I appreciate the help that you have gave to with me. Thank You
05-28-2021, 06:52 PM
