1964 Plymouth Fury Convertible w/383
#1
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1964 Plymouth Fury Convertible w/383
Hey guys, Maine mopar guy here, im new to the group and im here with some questions about a 1964 plymouth fury, it was my dads car, he owned and maintained it the best he could for over 50 years. recently my dad passed away and left it to me. id like to get some bugs fixed and learn as much as i can about this car. its always been a dream for me to drive it and i always wanted to own it some day. hes had it since before i was born. this car has 79000 original miles and has been restored before. but over the years its gotten some age and id like to freshen her up. meet Big Blue!!
#2
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Lucky you!! What a great memory gift. Sorry about losing your dad. I worked on these things for a living way back in time. On a beginners note, the oil is the life blood. A great non-synthetic oil is 10w40 Quaker State All Mileage oil. It ranked the highest in PSI wear protection of any conventional oil at a whopping 126000 PSI. Change the green antifreeze every 2 years, it will save you tons of trouble. Other than that. Enjoy!! Any questions feel free to contact me.
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dads64 (07-19-2023)
#3
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Lucky you!! What a great memory gift. Sorry about losing your dad. I worked on these things for a living way back in time. On a beginners note, the oil is the life blood. A great non-synthetic oil is 10w40 Quaker State All Mileage oil. It ranked the highest in PSI wear protection of any conventional oil at a whopping 126000 PSI. Change the green antifreeze every 2 years, it will save you tons of trouble. Other than that. Enjoy!! Any questions feel free to contact me.
Last edited by dads64; 07-19-2023 at 03:23 PM.
#4
Mopar Fanatic
Those trannys when they sit for a period of time tend to empty the torque converter which overfills the transmission causing a leak. Not definitely saying that's your problem. The kickdown could be just an adjustment on the rod (if it's still there with an aftermarket carb) that goes from the carb linkage to the swivel down to the tranny. Adjusted by turning out (loosening) for higher shift points and faster kickdowns. The tranny under normal acceleration should shift from first to second at 18 mph and 2nd to third at 36 mph.
As far as removing the engine, it all depends on your skill level. You could pull the engine and tranny in one shot after removing the motor mount hold down bolts and rear tranny mount, exhaust pipes from manifold and radiator plus hoses. I had them out in less than 2 hours on some. Others, well we won't talk about those.
As far as removing the engine, it all depends on your skill level. You could pull the engine and tranny in one shot after removing the motor mount hold down bolts and rear tranny mount, exhaust pipes from manifold and radiator plus hoses. I had them out in less than 2 hours on some. Others, well we won't talk about those.
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dads64 (10-31-2023)
#5
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Those trannys when they sit for a period of time tend to empty the torque converter which overfills the transmission causing a leak. Not definitely saying that's your problem. The kickdown could be just an adjustment on the rod (if it's still there with an aftermarket carb) that goes from the carb linkage to the swivel down to the tranny. Adjusted by turning out (loosening) for higher shift points and faster kickdowns. The tranny under normal acceleration should shift from first to second at 18 mph and 2nd to third at 36 mph.
As far as removing the engine, it all depends on your skill level. You could pull the engine and tranny in one shot after removing the motor mount hold down bolts and rear tranny mount, exhaust pipes from manifold and radiator plus hoses. I had them out in less than 2 hours on some. Others, well we won't talk about those.
As far as removing the engine, it all depends on your skill level. You could pull the engine and tranny in one shot after removing the motor mount hold down bolts and rear tranny mount, exhaust pipes from manifold and radiator plus hoses. I had them out in less than 2 hours on some. Others, well we won't talk about those.
#6
Mopar Fanatic
It sounds time to change out the battery and maybe starter. A simple check without amp tools is see if the battery cable (positive) gets warm/hot while starting. The gas now has ethanol. Ethanol boils just over 170 degrees causing vapor lock. It could make a hard start on warm days.
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dads64 (10-31-2023)
#7
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thanks for the info, i plan to dig it out next spring and go through it. losing my dad this summer was hard and all i could really do is look at it, but i do plan on taking it to the next level. i know my dads dream was to do 4 wheel disc breaks, msd igniton, and a better carb. cause i know the choke dont work. you really have to pump it alot to get it to start after sitting for a month or so. we did take a few nice rides in it and it was a dream come true.. i appreciate all the help guys
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RacerHog (10-31-2023)
#8
Mopar Fanatic
Grief certainly can be rough. It moves at it's own pace. You can't speed it up or slow it down. On the choke note. Mopars (big blocks) after sitting need to fill the carb bowl back up. Mostly because they evaporate the fuel. That's why you need to crank it so much. I installed an electric fuel pump while leaving the existing mechanical one in place. The one I installed looks like an inline gas filter. I put an on and off switch under the dash using it to fill the bowl after long sits and then shutting it off letting the mechanical fuel pump take over. Works great! Ethanol gas (10%) unfortunately boils just over 170 degrees.
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dads64 (10-31-2023)
#9
Mopar Lover
I just crank them about 20 revolutions,,,, and then after that mash the gas pedal slowly to the floor about 3 times... let it sit for about 15 seconds and then turn the key.... Works like a charm most of the time..... Lights them rite up.....
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dads64 (10-31-2023)
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