Oliver Hutchens

I have a 1984 Dodge W350 with the 5.9l 360ci gasoline engine. I have just set the ignition timing, and have some vacuum leaks. That’s not as much of my concern as it’s a simple fix with the diagram provided in the engine bay. What I am seeking help with is the egr amplifier; it appears to have been bypassed… I honestly don’t know what I am talking about so my apologies for any improper terminology or just incorrect statements. When we set the ignition timing we pulled the vacuum advance line from the distributor and blocked it off. We got the truck timed and ran great at idle. With the timing light and distributor at 8 degrees of advance it showed to be at zero on the harmonic balancer. When we put the vacuum line back on the distributor it didn’t run as it should. Other lines have been cut and plugged and the amplifier has all of the vacuum lines cut off. My main question is should I put the lines back through the amplifier and put it back to original dodge routing or should I leave it blocked off and replace or redo the plugs and even anything there is I should to to the amplifier as it has had the lines crudely cut from it. What are the reason(s) for bypassing the egr amplifier? Any additional information on vacuum problems or ignition timing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

RacerHog

If you don't have a state emissions testing? I would just leave it unhooked and plug off all the ports not needed... Just my 2 cents....
As for the the timing issue... Make sure you are using a ported Vacuum source, and also make sure the diaphragm is good in the distributor..
I would reset the initial timing to about 6* BTC...
Also... Make sure the EGR is closed and not leaking...

Kuvasz101

EGR valve or exhaust gas recirculator, ironically makes a cooler burn. We would just disconnect them or put a BB inside the vacuum line preventing it from opening. The engines ran better, and it took away a hesitation on acceleration. If all fails with the timing try a total advance something I prefer, Toyota did this even back in the 70's. Rev the engine to 2500 rpms with vacuum lines attached. With an adjustable timing light set the timing for around 32-34 total degrees and give it a try.

Oliver Hutchens

Thanks for your information, greatly appreciated!

Oliver Hutchens

Please excuse my ignorance, if I were to disconnect “all” of the vacuum lines, which ones do I leave connected? (What are the essential lines) Do I plug all of the ones I leave, or do I just let them be without any type of plug? Thanks

RacerHog

Take a Photo and post it up...
But if like you say none of them are hooked up.... Then just cap all the ports... only 3 hoses? correct?

https://www.ramchargercentral.com/at...ram-jpg.59319/

Oliver Hutchens

RacerHog

Only one i see that needs attention, is the one small port coming out of the carb... I would cap that small one... Its in the next to the last photo, The one coming out of the black float bowl body at an angle... The rest are all good to go...

Oliver Hutchens

So cap that one and let all the rest stay uncovered? (Minus the ones that are already plugged)
and where should I be running my vacuum advance line to; the manifold vacuum source or the carb?

RacerHog

1. Yes
2. Find a Ported Vacuum Source in / at the base of the carb. to plug your vacuum advance hose into.....
"Note" I would have assumed that you have already found that, with the hose you have hooked up next to the Idle air mixture screw pictured"?????
If that is not so, you will need a vacuum gauge to test the ports to find a ported vacuum source for the vacuum advance hose for the distributor.
Note: no vacuum when at idle..... And Vacuum when off idle....

At the moment, i don't remember exactly what port controls that.