Jarhizzy

Hello all my name is Ryan and this is my first post here but I have read threw a lot of the past threads relating to my current project. The truck I got is a 1990 Dodge W150 with the factory 318 TBI. I have had nothing but issues with the TBI and relating sensors therefore I am currently committed to making a carb conversion. The parts I currently have gathered is an elderbork 600 cfm electric choke carb with a matching elderbrock performer intake. I have three sets of intake gaskets ordered and will be here soon so I can match up properly as I am not sure how the heads + intake will match as it is an Aftermarket intake. Once the intake + carb unit is mounted I am prepared and looking forward to fabricating a throttle + linkage mount. I currently have a fuel pressure regulator ready to install as the rest of the other items go it. My main questions and concerns are this: Will my OEM fuel pump work even though I am eliminating the ECM and using a regulator to restrict the flow properly? My distributor does not have any vacuum related items and has a 3 wire plug. Will this work or will I be able to use a standard 4 pin HEI module out of a Chevy? Any other issues I am not aware about that I need to look at? I’m shooting to get the truck at least running this upcoming weekend as the weather will be much better than it has been. Just want to thank those for reading about my current project and hope to get some responses to help me get threw my first swap.

Coronet 500

Welcome. We did something like this but it was an LA engine into a '92. The original distributor won't work, pipe in a regulator with a return outlet and use the existing lines.
I disconnected much of the computer wiring and wired the fuel pump relay into the ignition switch along with the new electronic ignition (dist, coil, box and ballast resistor).
Your transmission will need some control redoing as input from the engine management system is used, we went with a 904.

Jarhizzy

I always believed I had a 2 wire distributor which I felt comfortable with just using a HEI module as that would have worked, but now after discovering I have a 3 wire I feel as if I got to swap the entire thing for a MSF ignition kit. Is this true? Or is there any other way to just unplug and hook 12v source to coil and let it run. As far as the fuel regulator I seem to have that situation under control. I will look into just wiring up the fuel pup to the run position which will clear any worries of the fuel pump not working since the computer will be eliminated. As far as I could figure out and what I have read, the lockout switch may be the only issue I will run into which will not let the OD kick in? I know on the truck it has a push button OD off. I am not sure what other tranny issues I will run into. My goal of this is to make the engine self-sufficient where a computer is not controlling it. As far as trans and other items, ATM I am not worried. As a side note, I am young and am learning so bear with as some items I may not be familiar with. Thanks for the quick response!

**As I continue to read into the ignition issue I may have, Is it possibly to swap out my current dist. with a new dist. out of an 88 w150 318 and just use an older chevy hei module and using the vaccum port on the carb?

Coronet 500

I would recommend getting a wiring diagram and don't eliminate the computer as dash lamps and gauges run through it I believe. I also added the older style charging regulator alternator and circuitry as the computer one didn't work without all the usual inputs, never could figure that one out.

Jarhizzy

I appreciate the feed back as this is all a big step for myself. I didn't plan on ripping out the wires, just tucking them back. The TBI is already out with all the sensors within it. AS far as the other sensors left I was planing on keeping them in. I think my best action is to just drop the intake + carb in and turn the key. No fuel, wire it directly to key. No ignition, swap dist out for older one with vac advance + 2 wire and use the HEI module I currently have. Am I forgetting anything else? I do wonder if I were to just buy a new dist from and older year w150 with the 318 if the dist lengths + gear match. I herd the vac advance dist's run CCW whereas mine runs CW, True?

Coronet 500

All Small Block Chrysler engines use the same oil pump drive, same length distributor and all turn Clockwise, points or electronic, vacuum or not.

Jarhizzy

Awesome news as this will most likely be my route as far as ignition. Only thing left I believe is the worry you gave me pertaining to the transmission.

440roadrunner

You can use a "seventies" Mopar breakerless distributor, but these have a less than ideal advance curve, unless you want to recurve it.

Accel does or did sell a "look alike" dist and I'm using one of those to trigger HEI

Which module you going to use? Make sure you get the dist. polarity correct, or it will get the rotor out of phase (Google "rotor phasing")

Jarhizzy

440roadrunner, my plan was to purchase a new distributor from napa for an 88 w150 with the 318 since it is a two wire and uses vaccume advance. I was going to use a four post hei module normally found in late 70s Chevys. I was planning on following this link on wiring it up http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203358 . As far as rotor phasing I believe with my plan it is not a worry as long as I stick to the write up and wire it properly, would that be correct?

Coronet 500

440 is correct and this would be the time to disassemble and adjust your mechanical advance to probably less as you'll need 10-12 initial with the carb and not more than 34 total advance. Replacement of the springs to lighter ones for quicker mechanical advance will be needed too.

Jarhizzy

As far as timing how my experience is only with rotating the distributor. As far as replacing or adjusting spring tension I have none. From what I am understanding you tske your timing which is 10, and add the value of the mechanical timing which refers to the weight and springs as mentioned. Is there a way to know what degree the new distributor comes set with from factory so I know where I am roughly art? I figured it would be swap out and just reset the position of the new distributor. If I just do that am I expecting issues? Thanks for the great help so far.

440roadrunner

Only way is if whoever supplies it says so and is believeable. Only other ways are to use a distributor machine or put it in the engine and "map it out" with a timing light.

FBO does make a DIY recurve kit with what is called a limiter plate. This might be one budget option. MSD and other aftermarket distributors, and I'm told, the late model Mopar Performance ones have adjustable mechanisms

For performance you want LOTS of initial advance, a short mechanical advance of somewhere around 20 degrees, and lighter springs. This is "general."

Yes they add. initial + mechanical give you "total" with your foot on the floor at high RPM, depending on the engine, anywhere from 32--40 degrees. Then, vacuum, which only is active on "light throttle" at cruise is for fuel mileage. You might see in excess of 55 degrees with vacuum in operation.

If you tear down a stocker, some had the mechanical advance stamped on the bottom of the "top hat." This is "distributor" degrees which are 1/2 "crank" degrees. The 20 degrees I mentioned above are "crank" degrees, IE, say, 15 or so initial plus 20 mechanical (at the crank) would give you 35 or so total.

But the shop manuals, distributor machines, etc, "don't talk" in crank degrees. They "talk" distributor degrees

THIS

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...m/viewall.html

is a great article.

If you read that, they show an advance stamped "15". This is typical of long, slow smog advance mechanisms, and gives you a whopping THIRTY degrees at the crank.............way way too much.

Jarhizzy

After reading the link I feel I understand the concept much better now. Would it be in my best intrest in rather purchasing a new distributor for an 88 318, but to get one for early 70's so I would have a better starting out mechanical advance? Just for a daily driver purposes would it be a drop in setup not requiring to swap out springs or weight? or is their such a thing? Thanks for thr help so far 440roadrunner.

440roadrunner

Anything built after 68 has a "smog" advance, and into the mid-late 70s just gets worse. They WILL run in a stock engine, it's just that you don't get the most out of 'em.

If you have the money and cannot recurve one I'd look for something that is adjustable, aftermarket

If you are limited on funds you might not have much choice. I think the earliest which had breakerless was 72.

Jarhizzy

Yes the engines stock other than the fact of the intake and carb for now atleast. Would it be wise to judt purchase a mopar performance ignition kit that comes with a distributor wire harness and orange box from jegs? Would that fit what you said about having money and not recurving one? My goal is to get the intake and carb on by thursday and the weekend getting it running so if I were to order from jegs ill get it within two days. The info you have given me seems to spot on from what ive looked into. Thanks

Jarhizzy

Something along the lines of this http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690426

Coronet 500

My son put one like this http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0002/overview/

in his Ford, I don't think they make one for Chryslers but if you search I'm sure someone makes a similar unit.

It has vacuum canister on or off, the GM style of weights and springs under the rotor and has different sized bushings to easily adjust the mechanical advance total.

Jarhizzy

Ah ok I got you. As i looked into the link you gave Coronet500 I seen an option as "ready-to-run" such as this one for my setup i believe http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...iew/make/dodge . From my understanding this is almost as drop in and just wire up to key on and i am able to advance the mechanical timing if needed but from what i read, if i set it to 10 btc then i should be around 35, correct? Also if i were to go with the selected distributor i posted, which vacuum port would i use on the carb, the one that is for no vacuum at idle or the one with vacuum at idle.

Coronet 500

Ignition Box Req`d - NO , that is what it means. My only concern about that one or any distributor you might buy is what type of trigger device, can I get parts for it and will the gear be compatible with my cam. You may be able to swap the gears if the shafts are the same diameter.

And for me, very important to have the GM style weights and springs with adjustable bushings for easy tuning.

After I did my son`s I thought , I gotta have this on my car. Easy to dial in first fire and to change later when he starts racing it. It was stupid easy.

Jarhizzy

I took what you said into consideration before and as i read the instructions on the one i posted above, you can adjust the vacuum timing with a supplied allen key and it even has an access to it. I agree with this being a good feature to have. Also it comes with two black and orange springs to adjust for the mechanical.. From looking at the application section with the distributor i posted, it listed my year engine as working. I'd hate to assume the gear is the proper one though, so would it be something they could answer over the phone?

Coronet 500

Know for sure if you have a flat tappet or roller camshaft and they should be able to answer. During these few years blocks were being changed into magnums but some came out still LAs. Sounds confusing so take of a valve cover and look down in the valley or down the dist hole.

Jarhizzy

If there wasn't a foot of snow out their, id be putting the intake and carb on -_- any way i could verify it in the haynes i got? I know that you said they began to "mix" parts and i've seen this done before. I'm just looking to see if i got rollers or the flat bottoms correct?

Coronet 500

I'm so sorry Jarhizzy, There is no gear on a Mopar distributor. I've got too much Ford on my brain working so much on my son's Mustang.

Jeez, what a Moron.

Jarhizzy

I feel kind of out of the loop on that last post. If referring to what i call a drive gear located on the bottom of the dist, then from all the images I have seen the mopar or the ones im looking at have one. As far as too much ford on the brain, that's all I've ever owned so this dodge stuff is new to me in a way.

Jarhizzy

Prior to me logging off for the night I found a distributor I have in mind and believe what I am going to order. http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66991/10002/-1 . I know it is not self maintained but it comes with the proper harness and module to run it as well as a good set of instructions on setting up. Any worries or issues with getting this one? Thanks for the help gents as this has been a real test of my knowledge, soon ill be throwing all this stuff together.

Coronet 500

Can't go wrong with Chrysler electronic, running this in the truck now.

Jarhizzy

I agree. I got it ordered and will be here today. I got the old intake off and the new one all prepped to go it this evening. Once the intakes on, carb is next then the distributor. After carb and intake are on I was going to get cylinder one tdc and then pull the distributor to swap in the new one. Is that correct? Hopefully she will be running come saturday.

Jarhizzy

Well as of today I got the intake and carb mounted. All fittings and hoses attached. Distributor install and plug wires hooked up. Temp. wired the ignition coil kit and for some reason I have no starter kicking in. Fuel pump is working though and lights come on inside. What all does the ASD Relay control?

Coronet 500

12V power to fuel pump, injectors, coil all for safety. I think it is 14ga Red (12V) connect to DB/BK wire, but check a relay diagram for the numbers of the contact points to be sure. Two of the connection points are for the relay's coil. I'll look it up if you need.

I removed this circuit on my change over and used the relay as an ignition start relay to bypass the ballast resistor when starter is cranking as I was getting a back feed through the ignition circuit to the starter. I've got 3 relays fuel pump, starter and ignition start on the inner fender where they put them after yours was built.

Jarhizzy

Just for starting purposes I was going to jump the asd relay with a wire for fuel. My ignition or coil is powered directly from the orange block threw a key on function. As far as nothing happening when I turn the key, I figured id check and jump the starter relay on my fender amd go from there. Any other ideas what it could be. Remember I turn the key and I get one click and its from a relay not a starter solenoid.