Turn the key and nothing happens?!
07-29-2013, 04:35 PM
#1
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Turn the key and nothing happens?!
I'm trying to figure out my ignition. The ignition turned over but there was no spark so I looked for loose wire. I connected these two random wires that look that they might go together and tried turning over and it didn't work. This time it didn't even turn over or click or anything. I got a new ignition and so I just thought oh when I put this in it will be fine. I put the new ignition in and it still doesn't do anything. I check the fuses under the dash and the one connected to the battery and both were fine. Is there another fuse that goes to the started or something? Did I fry the starter or something? The battery reads 12.2v. Any ideas?
07-29-2013, 08:22 PM
#5
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
07-29-2013, 10:21 PM
#6
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
I checked this fuse and its fine
Then there is this thing
Its a wire that has a black tab that says fusible link. I dont see any fuses there.
I checked all the fuses under the dash and they were fine.
WHAT DO I DO!!!!!!!!!!!!
Then there is this thing
Its a wire that has a black tab that says fusible link. I dont see any fuses there.
I checked all the fuses under the dash and they were fine.
WHAT DO I DO!!!!!!!!!!!!
07-30-2013, 12:22 AM
#7
Mopar Fanatic
The wire that has the molded tab reading "Fusible Link" is meant to act as a safety valve when you get a surge/spike in voltage. When they sense too much current, they burn out like a fuse. THEN, you'll get NO power to the inside of the car.
Do the headlights light up? Do the brake lights come on? Turn the key to the RUN position. Do the turn signals work? Wipers? Heater fan motor? If ANYTHING inside works, the Fusible Link is probably fine. If the dome light works, look at it while you try to crank the starter. If it dims, the starter is likely to blame because the wiring is transmitting power. If the dome light does NOT dim, I'd suspect the starter relay. The small brown wire with the molded end is the ground for the relay. You can attach a jumper wire from the terminal on the relay to the battery NEGATIVE and try cranking it again. Another thing: Take a screwdriver and try bridging across the two exposed terminals on the starter relay. Often times the relay contacts get sticky and fail to work.
************************************************** *************************************
Just noticed your screen name!
If the car in question really is a 1974 model, here is more info to chew on:
ALL American cars built for the 1974 model year had a Federally mandated "Starter/seat belt interlock system". This poorly misguided plan was integrated to all new cars and was so annoying and hated, the automakers were able to get the Feds to drop the mandate.
Here is the deal. In a perfect world, the system worked as follows. The starter would only engage if the driver and right seat passenger had their seatbelts connected before the key was turned. The system would NOT allow the starter to spin if either or both of the front seat occupants left the belts UNclicked. The seats had weight sensors in them to detect occupants. If the driver attempted starting the car 3 times without wearing the seat belts, it would shut down. There was a relay underhood on the LH fender apron. It had a RED reset button that had to be pressed to allow future starts.
Yeah... great technology.
Over 10, 20, 30 years, the seat sensors would fail. The reset relay would fail. The wiring in the car built up resistance. Another possibility? One of the 12 owners the car has had probably hacked into the wiring to eliminate some, most or only part of the system.
I had a 74 Duster that ran great for years. Just as I was getting ready to sell it, it developed a random "no start" issue. I tried replacing a few of the components of the "seat belt interlock" system, but in the end I had to eliminate all of it and bypass a few wires. It all worked out, but I'm sure the new owner may find a few surprises if he tries to use a factory wire diagram to diagnose any problems.
Do the headlights light up? Do the brake lights come on? Turn the key to the RUN position. Do the turn signals work? Wipers? Heater fan motor? If ANYTHING inside works, the Fusible Link is probably fine. If the dome light works, look at it while you try to crank the starter. If it dims, the starter is likely to blame because the wiring is transmitting power. If the dome light does NOT dim, I'd suspect the starter relay. The small brown wire with the molded end is the ground for the relay. You can attach a jumper wire from the terminal on the relay to the battery NEGATIVE and try cranking it again. Another thing: Take a screwdriver and try bridging across the two exposed terminals on the starter relay. Often times the relay contacts get sticky and fail to work.
************************************************** *************************************
Just noticed your screen name!
If the car in question really is a 1974 model, here is more info to chew on:
ALL American cars built for the 1974 model year had a Federally mandated "Starter/seat belt interlock system". This poorly misguided plan was integrated to all new cars and was so annoying and hated, the automakers were able to get the Feds to drop the mandate.
Here is the deal. In a perfect world, the system worked as follows. The starter would only engage if the driver and right seat passenger had their seatbelts connected before the key was turned. The system would NOT allow the starter to spin if either or both of the front seat occupants left the belts UNclicked. The seats had weight sensors in them to detect occupants. If the driver attempted starting the car 3 times without wearing the seat belts, it would shut down. There was a relay underhood on the LH fender apron. It had a RED reset button that had to be pressed to allow future starts.
Yeah... great technology.
Over 10, 20, 30 years, the seat sensors would fail. The reset relay would fail. The wiring in the car built up resistance. Another possibility? One of the 12 owners the car has had probably hacked into the wiring to eliminate some, most or only part of the system.
I had a 74 Duster that ran great for years. Just as I was getting ready to sell it, it developed a random "no start" issue. I tried replacing a few of the components of the "seat belt interlock" system, but in the end I had to eliminate all of it and bypass a few wires. It all worked out, but I'm sure the new owner may find a few surprises if he tries to use a factory wire diagram to diagnose any problems.
Last edited by Kern Dog; 07-30-2013 at 12:35 AM.
07-30-2013, 07:43 AM
#8
What KernDog posted re: fuse link is correct
So far as the seat belt interlock, those are easy to do away with. Look under the hood for a small box the size of the horn relay with a reset button. this will have some wires, two of which are yellow/ yellow stripe. Cut these two wires out of the connector and wire them permanently together.
So far as the seat belt interlock, those are easy to do away with. Look under the hood for a small box the size of the horn relay with a reset button. this will have some wires, two of which are yellow/ yellow stripe. Cut these two wires out of the connector and wire them permanently together.
07-30-2013, 10:03 AM
#9
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Okay so my head lights work and the dash lights and gauge lights all work. My dome light's bulb is burnt out but i turned the key and watched the gauge lights and nothing changed. This makes me think its either the starter relay or the seatbelt interlock.
For the seatbelt interlock: My seats have wires on the bottom but none of them are actually connected to anything, so the previous owner must have tried to get rid of the interlock. Is this the interlock box your talking about?
If it doesnt pop up, its a little metal box that says interlock bypass press and release button and start car manually. It has a red button. I tried pushing it and nothing happens.
For the seatbelt interlock: My seats have wires on the bottom but none of them are actually connected to anything, so the previous owner must have tried to get rid of the interlock. Is this the interlock box your talking about?
If it doesnt pop up, its a little metal box that says interlock bypass press and release button and start car manually. It has a red button. I tried pushing it and nothing happens.
07-30-2013, 01:23 PM
#11
Mopar Fanatic
Relays are cheap. If you have $10 to spend, get one and try it.
I have found that with some of these cars, old wiring really works against you. I've had cars that crank slowly from inside with the key, but spin over fast when tripping the contacts on the relay. To me, this means that the wiring is old and has excessive resistance.
I've owned and fixed up several 70s A body cars that had 100,000 or more miles on them. Many have had the slow cranking habit even with a new/fresh battery. The only true fix for those cars is to replace the harness.
I have found that with some of these cars, old wiring really works against you. I've had cars that crank slowly from inside with the key, but spin over fast when tripping the contacts on the relay. To me, this means that the wiring is old and has excessive resistance.
I've owned and fixed up several 70s A body cars that had 100,000 or more miles on them. Many have had the slow cranking habit even with a new/fresh battery. The only true fix for those cars is to replace the harness.
07-30-2013, 07:15 PM
#13
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
Okay I tested a lot of things today. I bought a new starter relay and that didnt change anything. I checked the neutral safety switch and that had continuity at ground.
Does this sound like a Starter/seat belt interlock system issue?
Does this sound like a Starter/seat belt interlock system issue?
07-30-2013, 11:02 PM
#15
Take a meter/ test lamp and probe the two quick connect terminals on your starter relay.
One of them should be "hot" when the key is twisted to start.
The other should not. If both are hot, it means the neutral safety switch is not closing to ground.
Unhook both "quick connect" wires. Determine which one is hot in "start." Hook that wire back up
If neither wire is hot in start, you have a problem between the ignition switch, the bulkhead, the seatbelt reset, and the starter relay.
Take a clip lead and ground the remaining quick connect terminal of the relay. BE CAREFUL that the car is in park/ neutral. The engine should crank.
One of them should be "hot" when the key is twisted to start.
The other should not. If both are hot, it means the neutral safety switch is not closing to ground.
Unhook both "quick connect" wires. Determine which one is hot in "start." Hook that wire back up
If neither wire is hot in start, you have a problem between the ignition switch, the bulkhead, the seatbelt reset, and the starter relay.
Take a clip lead and ground the remaining quick connect terminal of the relay. BE CAREFUL that the car is in park/ neutral. The engine should crank.
07-31-2013, 09:02 AM
#16
Mopar Fanatic
Thread Starter
I tested both of the quick connects and neither of them trigger the light on my test lamp. I bought a new starter relay, I wired the two yellow wires from the quick connect. How do i test the bulkhead and ignition switch?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
440GTXguy
General Discussion
9
04-20-2013 10:14 PM
rcknrolfender79
General Discussion
8
11-29-2009 02:07 AM
Pfhoenix
Do-It-yourself Section
3
04-03-2008 10:44 PM
