Kuvasz101

Correct! I wouldn't recommend bypassing the switch, but it worked well in diagnosing the problem. Enjoy!!

Abcdefghii

New safety switch arrived today, does it matter which wire goes to which? outside of the middle one of course.

Also, does anytime know the difference in hinges and pins to the 83 and on trucks vs an 81? Started with on replacing the driver's door pins earlier, bottom pin out and after a lot of cursing got the bottom part of the hinge removed, checked the hinge piece on the body and there are no bushings that I can see. The pins look the same, both fit reasonably snug in the new bushings, dropping the new pin through the hinge at the body and it feels loose, so figure there are no bushings and I need to install them.

I ordered 2 x Dorman 38382 kits so I could do both doors, all 4 bushings in the kit are the same size - .347" x .420" x .400" and in a Dorman kit 38382. If I check Dorman website for the kit, I see my truck listed and it saying direct fit.

Yet, I cannot get the bushings to go in at all, tried all 8 just in case some were a different size and nope, all the same, none going in. Cannot get them to start seating at all, so have to hold them by hand and try tapping with a hammer, also tried squeezing them with some channel lock pliers, but getting nowhere. Is there a tip to get these stupid things to seat? Every video I have seen, they are able to start seating the bushing by hand and then tap in with a hammer. There's no chance I can do that.

Right now my drivers door is hanging off resting on a jack and block of wood, had hoped this would be a reasonably quick job but have had to stop for the day.

The only thing I can think of is that my hinges are not original to the truck, but I don't know for sure. But looking at the specs of a hinge kit for later years, the bushing diameter is even larger, so I'm really not sure.

Kuvasz101

I would say either way on the wiring, it's just making a loop connection when it's in park. Can't help on the hinges, that was more often left to the body shop guys.

Abcdefghii

Thanks, maybe I can at least get that wiring done tomorrow.

Been a frustrating day between the hinge on the driver's side and the passenger door latch.

Passenger door doesn't like to open from the outside, pulled the latch, cleaned it all up, everything wiring freely on it. Back in the truck and the outside handle still doesn't work, if I reach inside the door I can feel it actuating the rod, but it doesn't pop the latch. If I hold the rod, push the button on the outside handle and then pull the rod down maybe an extra 1/4" it works, but that's obviously not a solution.

So... Between the hinge and the latch, today is truck 2, me 0.

Kuvasz101

On the side of the door by the latch there's a hole or should be one. You need an allen wrench to loosen it. It adjusts the throw of the handle. Maybe you could squeeze 1/4 inch out of the adjustment.

Abcdefghii

Looks like mine does not have that opening, I wonder if that is something on the later trucks. I did read that there is a screw on the handle itself that can work loose, going to see if I can find that, hopefully something I can access with the handle attached to the door. Not that it looks difficult to remove.

Abcdefghii

New safety switch is in, so that's good.

Got the driver's door back together, I used a Dremel to sand the hole enough that I could hammer the bushings in, pretty sure one split when I then drove the pin through, but the play in the bottom hinge is at least cured.

Of course, the door now needs some adjustments and I notice the slack in the top pin now. I may just start looking for replacement hinges. I'm not sure mine ever had bushings, which makes no real sense.

Abcdefghii

Another small win, the passenger door latch problem is fixed. While I did not have the adjustment through the side of the door, there is a small screw that can be used to adjust the arm going to the exterior handle. Moved that all the way to the other end, re-installed the latch and the door opens and closes really nicely.

Kuvasz101

I love your persistence!! HooRah for you!

Abcdefghii

Thanks, it's nice getting the little jobs taken care of, I know there are plenty of larger jobs to do, but each of these small ones make it just that little more enjoyable to drive around in.

Which sort of reminds me, does anyone reading this have a picture of how the wiring coming from the ignition switch and steering column are routed? Mine are in the way and the fuse box is just sort of hanging out, I think the ignition harness is blocking the fuse box from getting back in the correct spot on the little removeable panel.

RacerHog

Your making really good progress !!!! Cheers and keep up the good work....

Abcdefghii

Another day, another question... while the truck is driving fine, it is running rich, I can smell the fuel pretty strongly from the exhaust. The carb is a Holley R9135, but I cannot seem to find any information about adjustments or even a rebuild kit for it, does anyone have any info on this carb? Trying to figure out what to do to stop it from running rich.

Kuvasz101

I know earlier you had wire problems that led to the electric choke assist. If those choke heating elements are bad or disconnected the choke won't open all the way. Those crossover exhaust 318s in the intake manifold are notorious for plugging up adding more loss of heat to the choke spring. Another note: If that is running rich you can bet your life you have gas in the oil.

Abcdefghii

I think the choke isn't opening at all, I ran it for a few minutes earlier, maybe 5-10 minutes and the choke did not appear to open at all (had the air cleaner off).

The wire that went to the choke from the alternator, can I pull power for that from somewhere else?

I'll plan on an oil change as soon as I can get the choke situation sorted and it no longer running rich.

Kuvasz101

Yes you can pull power from another source. Ideally power while running to avoid the choke heating up with just the key on not running. BUT..... that's ideal, you could just grab it from a 12-volt source. Another trick, but all engines react and run differently is to have the vacuum choke pull off open the choke pretty much wide open. The choke will close when cold and allow it to start but open wide or wider which could make it stall and studder out. Again, some run fine this way. You won't know until you try it.

Abcdefghii

Had a relative come and make some tweaks earlier, so far it seems to be idling better and the choke is opening. I'll start it tomorrow from fully cold and see, but on 2 test starts earlier the fuel smell was gone.

I might still do this, right now that wires still not connected. We actually tried to find a switched 12v, but either there is something really weird going on or my test light is faulty. Basically test light on battery ground and probe on valve cover, brake booster etc was showing power. What's really strange is I disconnected battery positive and the test light was still illuminating. One end battery ground, other on the brake booster, lights up. Makes zero sense.

I started looking at window regulators earlier, driver's one is obvious, the teeth are all worn down. I can push the glass down carefully by hand and the regulator moves fine, but the teeth don't engage with the crank.

Passenger side is proving tricky. The teeth all look fine, but the crank doesn't turn more than about 20°, I cannot move the window down more than maybe 1/4" but hand but do see the regulator moves slightly when doing this. However, I can't get it to move any significant amount and I'm not sure how I can remove it with the vent window in place and the door main glass fully up.

Since I can't get the glass to go down any, I can't remove the vent and I can't slide the glass off the track on the regulator. Sprayed a lot of wd40 in there, but it made no real difference.

RacerHog

Your working with this style of choke system?

RacerHog

If the window glass is all the way in the up position? You should be able to unbolt the door window regulator and slid it off the horizontal tracks?
Then you can determine if the regulator is the issue or is the door glass just stuck in the window track.

Abcdefghii

Correct, that's the one I have. Started it cold this morning and it fired right up, seemed to be idling nicely with no stink of fuel, so hopefully that is cured. I wonder if that spring is getting weak though and if it is worth the $40 replacement.

Window glass is all the way up, not sure I am following though, with it in the up position I can't slide the glass either way to get it off the tracks.

Unless you are saying that if I remove the 4 bolts (well in this case rivets) that hold the regulator to the door, that there is enough movement for me to be able to push the crank handle piece through the opening in the door and then with the regulator loose I should be able to slide the regulator mechanism itself towards the back of the door (can't go forward, vent window is there) which will release the window from the tracks and I can then fish the regulator out the door.

RacerHog

OK... So the Thermostatic Choke Coil is plugged into the Choke Resistor? And you do or don't have power to the Choke Resistor?

Abcdefghii

Yep, that is correct.

RacerHog

OK... One Goes to the choke Coil... The power side to the resistor should be a Blue or Dark Blue Wire? This wire should be hot with the engine running? 12 Volts or something near that?

Abcdefghii

The power side has nothing on it right now, previously that was connected to the alternator and burnt to a crisp, since then I have left it disconnected.

I tried to find a switched 12V under the hood yesterday to use instead, but was getting really weird results with my test light. As in, test light on battery negative, battery positive not connected, touch the test light probe to say the brake booster and it lights up, lights up if I touched pretty much anything metal under the hood, which I do not understand how that is happening with the battery positive disconnected.

Kuvasz101

Let me get this right. The positive is disconnected on the battery. Your test light alligator clip is on the negative. You're getting your test light to light if you touch metal ie the booster? If that's the case you're dealing with electrolysis. Electrolysis is corroded metal setting up a charge.

Abcdefghii

Yep, 100% correct.

Anything I can do about it?

Kuvasz101

It usually isn't a problem unless it is. What that means is, if it's not causing a problem, it isn't a problem. Electrolysis is a natural occurring process. That's why green antifreeze is changed out every 2 years. It gets loaded with metal particles causing electrolysis and cooling system rust. I don't think you plan on doing a total body strip down and zinc coating with engine being tanked. I would just go with it as is. You could also attach anodes on different locations on the truck. They're cheap enough and serve a purpose of attracting electrolysis to the anodes. Rusting anodes are better than rusting frames.

RacerHog

Also, This Truck only has one battery?
And we are sure the battery has not been recharged backwards? " Meaning the positive post of the battery is now negative".. Checked with a voltmeter.

You can find those Anodes very easy...... Here is a sample... You can get one and insert it in place of the Radiator Drain Plug....
https://flex-a-lite.com/flex-a-lite-...inc-anode.html

Also: I understand why you left the Resistor disconnected for now.... It may be shorted, and that could have been possibly what caused the wire to the alternator field wire to burn up.

Abcdefghii

Yep, checked with multimeter and it's wired correctly, no 2nd battery unless it's really well hidden!

xaza

Bob, what is the correct resistance for the choke resistor? I am assuming this is basically a small electric heating strip. Does it have a second wire for ground or just ground through the body.

Abcdefghii

Great, I'll look to do that, just need to get the right dimensions to fit the radiator drain plug and will put one in there.

For now I will leave the resistor disconnected, but may look to replace it once I can reliably find a switched 12v source.

Back to trying to get the passenger window regulator out now. Trying to decide if before I go any further I should find and buy a pair of replacement manual window regulators, that way, once I get these out (well, drivers side needs replacing no matter what) I can go ahead and install a new one if the old passenger one does not want to play nicely.