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I just picked up an 81 D150, depending on whether the odometer rolled over or not, it's got either 69k or 169k miles on it, so pretty low mileage. Judging by the state of the interior, the 69k might be accurate (that's also what's listed on the title) overall it's in solid shape, needs a driver's floor pan repair, but as far as I can tell that's the only rust. Got a 318 with dual exhaust, AC (that works!) auto, single cab, long bed.
But, as with any 42 year old vehicle it's got some issues. It definitely needs tires and brakes, assuming no issue with the brake system that's an easy job. The other things, I need some pointers on...
1. It's got an alarming gas leak, seems to be coming from the top front of the tank. When braking it's literally a waterfall of gas dumping out. Is this likely to be the large gasket around where all the lines enter the tank?
2. The windshield wipers worked for about 15 seconds, then they stopped. I test drove another truck that the wipers also didn't work, are there common issues with these? Motor? Fuse?
3. Neither window goes down, the handle on the passenger side basically broke in half trying to lower the window, drivers side the handle turns, but does nothing.
4. Trying to start it, I have to hold the shifter up when I turn the key. Even this doesn't work every time, is there a safety switch somewhere? If so what's the part and how easy is it to swap out?
5. It looks like the drivers floor rust is due to a leak around the windshield. Looks like at some point the previous owner did a crappy job trying to reseal the windshield. Looks to be a little rust around the top, but the roof is solid. Is this a known problem area? Any good fix to stop the windshield leaking and causing more rust?
6. Not really an issue, but where are people getting parts? Are there any goto places?
With the above taken care of, it'll need a suspension refresh but fingers crossed after that, it'll be fun to ride about in while taking care of minor issues.
As far as the gas leak goes, it's a crap shoot until you pull it and inspect it.
Yes there's a neutral safety switch on the tranny that you could try adjusting or replacing. Easy screw in and out.
Wipers could be the fuse. The motors were actually pretty durable on them. If you swipe while dry it causes a heck of a drag, so don't do that it could pop a fuse.
Your windows are waiting for you to pull the panels and see what's behind door number 1 and 2. A can of W d40 works wonders.
Thanks, you know it might be the fuse then. They worked briefly trying to clear the window of early morning condensation and then quit. Fingers crossed that's an easy fix.
1. Agreed, Pull the tank and see whats wrong...
2. Agreed, But if the fuse is good. Check for power at the motor? if it has power, Leave the switch in the on position and give the wiper arm a couple lite tugs... If they start working the Brushes are weak in the motor...
3. Agreed. Need to pull the panels and see what the issue is.... Clean and Lube everything inside... Even the window guide track.....
4. Im going to say, Replace the linkage bushings, my guess is they are to sloppy for the transmission to properly select the detent for full park and the switch...
5. Yes the windshield can be a bitch to seal... Also... Check the roof line for pinholes.... These roofs go bad from the inside out from moisture inside the cab....
6. Welcome to the hunt..... Try Dodge Connection .Com... Got a Red Dodge Truck for the site... Check it out....
7. Just remember.... If I Can Do It, You Can Do It...
8. Just my 2 cents....
Appreciate the info, it's currently at a shop where they will drop the tank and look at that (while also replacing tires and brakes). The roof looks and feels very solid, but obviously I am going to want to get the windshield sealed though in order to keep it that way.
Those look about correct.... Ask, someone to help you, by sitting in the truck and move the lever up and down each gear, while the truck is off of course, and check for slop in the linkage. You will see the looseness it is has any....Then replace those bushing or all of them... Then you can work on any adjustments needed...
Well.... got the first list of parts that it needs...
Gas tank - unfortunately, the tank has a big crack in it. Ordered a Holley Sniper compatible steel tank, may upgrade to the EFI in future, but a steel tank will be nice to have instead of plastic.
Rear brakes - basically the entire thing, including hoses.
Front brakes - similar to the rear, but hey, the passenger caliper is good (however, I ordered a new one because everything else is getting replaced there).
Ignition switch and lock cylinder - tried shift bushings and a new neutral safety switch but it is still being difficult to start.
Picked up new wheels and tires for it, got some American Racing AR62's - Keeping the original wheels, might throw a set of snow tires on those for winter duty.
Overall, not actually terrible to be honest, other than the lock cylinder and gas tank, the rest of it is simply parts that wear anyway and pretty basic stuff. With those things taken care of it should be road worthy. At that point I think first thing I will do is tackle the windows not going down, then the wipers, then figure out a windshield replacement as not only do I think it leaks, but it is also getting that white fogging up that seems to be between layers or something, likely a replacement drivers floor pan and drive it.
Short to medium term I plan to replace the shocks, as well as eventually a more comprehensive suspension refresh (possibly lowering it).
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 09-28-2023 at 01:18 PM.
Are there any options decoders out there for these trucks? I found one book, literally 200 plus pages, but can't figure out how to read it.
Got a good picture of the tag but it's no use to be without being able to decipher it. Getting info from the VIN a was simple, but I'd like to confirm options the truck came with in case anything was removed that I'd like restored.
Hummm..... Check for the Option decal afixed to the glovebox? Or a build sheet under the seat attached to the springs, or in the seat back attached to the springs.
Other than that, call Chrysler Customer support and see if they have a build sheet for the truck?
New brakes are installed, also discovered someone removed the brake booster at some point. I have no clue why someone would make their brakes worse, but here we are.
I'll likely want to put it back at some point, is it a fairly straightforward process? Obviously I'd need the brake booster, but what else will be required? Vacuum line to the intake manifold.
New brakes are installed, also discovered someone removed the brake booster at some point. I have no clue why someone would make their brakes worse, but here we are.
I'll likely want to put it back at some point, is it a fairly straightforward process? Obviously I'd need the brake booster, but what else will be required? Vacuum line to the intake manifold.
Looks like the biggest issue will be simply finding one, O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Rock Auto etc all say unavailable. Advance Auto Parts say they have one ships direct from manufacturer, but when I try to order it errors saying not available.
Can anyone confirm if a booster from an 85 fits the 81? I can find those in stock, I know the trucks are similar, but not certain if the booster is interchangeable
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 10-30-2023 at 10:14 AM.
I did a little research and it looks like they are different, the rod which connects to the brake pedal is different, while the overall dimensions appear to match, who knows what may be different internally. Possibly it could be made to work, but would at least require I think a master cylinder from the later model as well as I think somehow being able to change the rod. Going to continue searching, reached out to a seller on car-part, waiting on a response there.
I had called Napa yesterday and they have none and show none available at any store.
Woot... Found a brake booster, got a notification that Rock Auto had some in stock, jumped on it. Kind of stinks I don't have a core to return plus shipping was a bit absurd (I'm basically paying close to twice what the actual listed price is) but I'll have a booster that's new.
Might go to a junkyard and see if I can find a core to return, but I may just not worry about that.
Making, unfortunately, slow progress, the biggest headache remaining is that I cannot get it to start with the key. If I apply 12v direct to the starter solenoid, it will fire right up, but using the key it does not want to start. The neutral safety switch has been replaced, along with checking the shift bushings, but since it starts when bypassing the key I don't believe those are the issue.
Is there any specific wiring going through the dash that is prone to issues? The previous owner appears to have hacked in a bunch of stuff that we have been trying to clean up, but I'd really at this point just like to get the truck starting with the key. Worst case, I can add a toggle switch / push button start, but would prefer to avoid that unless it is a last resort.
Also had to pick up a different lock cylinder, I had ordered a new one and while it works (other than the not starting) it also falls out. So had to order a different one that should hopefully stay in place.
Using a test light. follow the harness from the ignition switch down the column to where it plugs together. When you turn the key to the crank position one of the connections will light up your tester. It should only light in the crank position. Once that is found follow the color-coded wire to the wire block on the firewall. See if you have power there in the crank position. This should take you to the starter relay. From memory, I believe it's a brown wire with a little half shaped cap on the end. I just looked and it is brown at least on my year. You could test that first as well and see if it lights up. I tried taking a pic (not so good) showing the ignition wire to the relay. These things and mine did it, get corroded and dirty losing connection. If you have power going to it try cleaning it.
It’s very common for the bulkhead connection in the firewall to deteriorate because of water damage. The pins inside the connector will corrode overtime, the only way to check these is to pull the connector apart and repair or bypass the connectors. I’ve seen them where a good cleanup and they’re working it’s more extensive. but this is where the engine connects to the dashboard so it’s got to be right.
Using a test light. follow the harness from the ignition switch down the column to where it plugs together. When you turn the key to the crank position one of the connections will light up your tester. It should only light in the crank position. Once that is found follow the color-coded wire to the wire block on the firewall. See if you have power there in the crank position. This should take you to the starter relay. From memory, I believe it's a brown wire with a little half shaped cap on the end. I just looked and it is brown at least on my year. You could test that first as well and see if it lights up. I tried taking a pic (not so good) showing the ignition wire to the relay. These things and mine did it, get corroded and dirty losing connection. If you have power going to it try cleaning it.
Thanks for the info, I need to pick up a test light, I have a multimeter, but I could see a test light being a little simpler to use in diagnosing this sort of stuff.
Originally Posted by Iowan
It’s very common for the bulkhead connection in the firewall to deteriorate because of water damage. The pins inside the connector will corrode overtime, the only way to check these is to pull the connector apart and repair or bypass the connectors. I’ve seen them where a good cleanup and they’re working it’s more extensive. but this is where the engine connects to the dashboard so it’s got to be right.
Good to know, I will take a look at that connector.
Another little update, ordered a different lock cylinder and that stays in place, still having issues with getting it to start from the key. Since the brakes (not including the booster) and gas tank are all installed, I planned to drive it home last Friday. Unfortunately, it only made it about 5' before the engine cut out (likely something related to the ignition) and it refused to start, eventually emitting some smoke from butchered wiring to the alternator. Disappointing as I had hoped to get it home (finally) but given that it was starting to get dark I did not want to risk driving it home and get stranded somewhere. Noticed that I need to replace the dash bulbs, none of those came on except the ones behind the HVAC controls. Easy job there though that I can do at home.
It does now have new wheels and tires on and IMO, looks fantastic. I had thought about lowering it, but I am not sure I will bother as I really like the ride height where it is.
Thanks, I'll watch that video later and read the article. Even if the current issues are not due to the amp gauge, it might well be worth eliminating that in the future anyway.
Thanks, I'll watch that video later and read the article. Even if the current issues are not due to the amp gauge, it might well be worth eliminating that in the future anyway.
Not that you have to do it... Its just something to keep in mind if issues pop up that you are having... Cheers
Random question, what do you guys think the factory wheels are worth? Some guy saw them on the bed of the truck the other day and said he might have someone interested in buying them. While I had planned to just clean them up and store them somewhere, depending on the value, I could use that to invest in some other things the truck needs.
All of them have the center caps, no visible damage as far as I can tell. If I can get a couple hundred for them, then not only does it save me finding a spot to store them, but also throws a couple hundred back into the truck parts fund.
Bad news... the brake booster I bought does not work with the master cylinder that is on the truck. Had to get a new master cylinder ordered and fingers crossed get that installed this week. I wonder if whoever removed the brake booster originally also swapped out the master cylinder (maybe the cylinder was leaking, damaged the booster and so they just ditched both). But, that should at least be a relatively simple job.
Sitting here and thinking about it, the doors are a little difficult to close (have to really put some effort into pushing and latching), I am going to replace the hinge pins initially as that is probably a relatively simple job along with lubricating the hinges themselves and latches. Searching parts places I am getting different sized pins, is the Dorman 38382 kit the correct size?
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 02-06-2024 at 01:53 PM.
09-10-2023, 08:27 AM
